CATHERINE MALANDRINO
Tom Pecheux took Catherine Malandrino's theme; a petal palette - and ran with it. "Think of the sunrise in St. Tropez," he said. "But think of it rising over a beautiful old French hotel, where all the artists live and work." In others, flowery - but arty flower. Kind of Renoir. The rose colors went on the cheeks. The jasmine, lavenders and lilacs went on the eyes. And the mouths were a pouty purplish pink reminiscent of peony. Think Flower Power a la Francais.

RUFFIAN
The theme of Madame Pompadour was taken pretty seriously at Ruffian. The models' hair was in literal pompadours - and Polly Osmond applied white powder base to the outlining areas of their faces, reminiscent of powdered wigs. Then she painted on China Doll-like pink cheeks for a regal feeling and matched them with a soft pink mouth. On the eyelids - only gloss. The effect? Marie Antoinette goes clubbing.

ROSA CHA
Okay, we already know that Spring '08 is about channeling the casual jet set chic of Lauren Hutton. But at Rosa Cha, Gordon Espinet was going for the looks of all the great cover girls of the seventies. "Think Francesco Scavullo," he said. To Espinet, seventies makeup implies, "No structure in the makeup - but lots of strong textures." He made the skin shine with gold and bronze highlighters applied to the cheeks, eyes and lips. "It's about taking beach style," he said of the famous bathing suit line, "and making it fashion."

TEMPERLEY
We've seen a hint of fluorescence slipping into makeup for Spring '08 - in the form of the matte electric orange mouth. Charlotte Tilbury invoked it to balance the palette in Alice Temperley's frocks: we saw a lot of whites, neutrals - and orange. Tilbury used a combo of three M·A·C tools to create the look: a M·A·C Orange Lip Pencil, the Lipstick Morange, and Lipmix. The mouth was counterbalanced by a large "C" shape of gloss painted in a semi circle from the brow and eye bone over the cheekbone. "I think of it was 1930's makeup that's mixed with rave culture," Tilbury noted.

RODARTE
James Kaliardos went eye to eye with Rodarte's punk ballerina look for spring by creating an unusual and highly artistic eye makeup design: black lines underneath and above the eye that met in an exaggerated cat formation somewhere out in the nether brow bone area. The lids were dabbed with turquoise or cobalt, reflecting Rodarte's major color theme. An art statement or a new way to apply eyeliner that's post modern and pushes the makeup envelope? At Rodarte, it was actually both. The rest of the face was dewy, natural and young - as were those Belle du Jour ponytails dipped in colored ink.