Gigi Hadid to Kaia Gerber: Chanel’s show at Paris Fashion Week is an ode to Coco Chanel’s childhood
Gigi Hadid and Kaia Gerber walk down the runway in sleek buns, tulle loaded dresses, peter pan collars and much more. Chanel’s Haute Couture show at Paris Fashion Week was an emotional journey through Coco Chanel’s childhood days. Take a look!
After Chanel’s Haute Couture show at Paris Fashion Week, we can truly say that the French fashion house has entered the age of Chanel’s art director Virginie Viard. Be it her first pret show, first couture show or her first cruise show for Chanel they have always been overshadowed with the great loss of her predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld. As the demise of the Kaiser is receding, Viard’s authentic work is coming into sharper focus and that too with great surprises. Being Karl’s right hand for 36 years, Virginie Viard was an obvious choice for Chanel and she plays a pivotal role in taking the fashion house away from Karl’s legacy to the roots and work of Coco Chanel.
For Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2020 show, she recreated the cloister garden of the abbey of Aubazine, an orphanage where Coco Chanel spent six years of her childhood after her mother’s death. The simplistic nature of the runway brings back memories from the 20’s and abides by Coco’s idea of fashion. While Lagerfeld liked dramatic runways, Viard’s taste is more stripped back and simpler. The collection was inspired by the time Coco Chanel spent in the orphanage mastering her sewings skills taught to her by the nuns of Aubazine more than the Chanel who spent her time at The Ritz. “I liked the idea of the boarder, of the schoolgirl, the outfits worn by children long ago,” said Virginie Viard of the collection.
The collection was more like a flashback to Chanel under Coco’s reign. Bertha collared dresses pinched in at the waist and layers of tulle embellished with floral applique resembling the unkempt gardens of the orphanage. The simple side swept hairdo surely made us remember the school girls back in the 1910’s.
Most of the looks were monochromatic so that the models look clean and neat straight out of a black and white movie. There was simple, aesthetic grace in pintuck blouses, belted waists and tulle loaded frocks. Peter pan collars and gingham checks surely highlighted Chanel’s sense of style who made a simple striped tee chic.
Pulled up stockings, striped long dresses in different hues and and button down dresses dominated the brands Spring/Summer 2020 show. Floral appliques on loaded tulle dresses paid homage to the flowers grown leggy flopped on the brick paths of the church.
Viard’s devotion to the early days of Coco Chanel was quite visible in classic Chanel two-toned shoes and slip ons with rolled down chunky socks. The intricacy that haute couture buyers expect was given through herringbone laced with ribbons for a new spin on tweed that Coco always swore by, embellished buttons on tweed suits that resembled the abbey’s stained glass and multi-coloured pansies on evening gowns.
The gardening which spread unmanicured all over the runway and sticking by Coco’s advice of taking down one accessory before stepping out of the house, culminated into a time travel. With designers opting for a more futuristic approach towards fashion, going back to the roots has its own beauty. What do you think about Virginie Viard’s take on Chanel’s childhood? Comment below and let us know.
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