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Neeta Lulla Exclusive Interview: Fashion designer shares wedding lehenga tips for upcoming brides, cinematic contributions and more
Renowned costume designer and stylist Neeta Lulla opens up about her experiences in the fashion industry and cinematic contributions as she completes 40 years in the industry.
Neeta Lulla is a name that epitomizes grace and elegance in the world of the fashion industry. She is a talented costume designer and stylist who has been working in the film industry for over 40 years. With her keen eye for detail and unparalleled creativity, she has lent her talent to over 400 films, leaving an ineffaceable mark on the world of Bollywood and fashion. From the grandeur of Devdas to the opulence of Mohenjo Daro, Jodha Akhbar, and Manikarnika, Neeta Lulla has played a pivotal role in bringing characters to life through her exquisite costumes.
Neeta Lulla in an exclusive interview to Pinkvilla, revealed some of her fashion secrets, experiences, and insights about the fashion industry. Let's delve into some interesting aspects of the designer’ fashion journey.
EXCERPTS FROM THE INTERVIEW
How did you start your career in fashion, and what inspired you?
NL: When I finished my graduation, I started my journey as a fashion choreographer. By chance, I began working on a film and simultaneously started working on bridal and couture outfits. I started working on outfits for brides and grooms who were relatives, covering all their functions, while also working on films.
Without much communication, we were just going with the flow. The film I worked on received a lot of appreciation, and I immediately got calls from many actors. From then on, there was no looking back. Regarding bridal couture, I brought a particular element with me, working with the color pink and using a double veil. One veil on the bride's head and the other on her hands. In films, I had a technical background, and I got many opportunities.
2. You have created costumes for many period drama films such as Khuda Gawah, Mohenjo Daro, Jodha Akhbar and Devdas. What was your creative process for designing costumes for these films?
NL: Whenever I work on a film, I want to hear the narration and read the script at least three times so that I can start imagining the process of how the character will look and what colors will work the best. This is because I want to understand what I can bring to the table with the research I do and what elements I can add.
After that, we have meetings with our Heads of Departments (HODs) and the art department, and we discuss if the colors align with what other HODs are thinking and if they are in line with the director's vision. Then we start sketching the looks, followed by selecting fabrics and color schemes. After that, we move on to jewelry, and then we get into production.
3. You have been in the fashion industry for so many years, and you know that trends change every day. So, how do you ensure that your costumes in films remain relevant and impactful with changing trends?
NL: When I started working in films, fashion forecasting in the country was quite slow. When I created a collection, it would become popular a year later because trends became popular during that time. Also, at the time, actors like Juhi Chawla and Sridevi used to work in 5 films simultaneously, and the filmmaking process was quite slow. So, by the time the film was released, my costumes would become a hit. Nowadays, there are so many brands in the market, and creating costumes has become much easier.
4. You also work a lot in bridal wear, and weddings happen throughout the year in India, so what do you think are the things brides should be careful about when selecting their lehenga?
NL: First and foremost, the bride should choose a color in which she feels comfortable. They should not follow trends or outfits they have seen actors wearing. Instead, they should opt for a color that truly suits them. They should choose embroidery and colors that appeal to them personally.
Buy embroidery and colors that appeal to you, and purchase jewelry before the outfit so that you can wear it with other outfits as well. Choose an outfit that speaks to your heart so that you can style its dupatta, lehenga, and blouse in different ways later on. This includes the sustainable aspect of reusability. Choose a lehenga and jewelry that you can pass on to your children in the future.
5. What do you think will be the colors and trends taking over in the upcoming wedding season?
NL: I think deeper tones of color like maroon or wine are becoming popular, but I also feel that colors like Ecru are gaining popularity. Colors like yellow and hot pink will become very popular too. The thing is, you can’t go with just any color, colors stay the same, it’s just their tints or shades that vary. Light lavender color and very cool princess looks for weddings are going to be very popular.
6. Since you've worked a lot with Paithani fabric, what is it about it that draws you, and how have you incorporated it into your designs?
NL: I worked extensively with Kanjivaram, Kalamkari and Paithani fabrics because I grew up in Hyderabad, and these fabrics hold a special place in my heart. kanjivaram, Dharmavaram, Kalamkari sarees-they’re all very close to my heart. When I used to wake up in the morning, I would see women stepping out wearing these sarees with their hair down, and this cultural sight is something I grew up with. When I started designing, I noticed a void in the use of our heritage weaves.
There were often statements made that people didn’t want “Behenji” or “Mummy” sarees, which I never understood. So, I began modernizing them by incorporating softer fabrics with Kanjivaram and started using them in outfits, making it a global trend. Gradually, there was a resurgence of love for these traditional sarees after Devdas, and people started sending me letters thanking me for bringing back Indian heritage weaves into our lives.
7. What advice would you like to give to those who are making their way in the fashion world or those who want to enter it?
NL: I believe that fashion is a highly diverse field, and if you want to succeed in this industry, you need to identify your strengths and focus on them. Give your best effort and contribute your unique talents to the industry. Fashion aspirants should understand their true calling and the industry’s needs. So, I would say, keep that as your foremost mantra and follow that process because it will take you places. Many fields are opening up in the fashion, providing numerous opportunities. We are becoming one of the world’s biggest fashion powers, and we need people who can bring new thoughts, ideas and concepts to every field.
With more than 40 years of experience in the fashion industry, Neeta Lulla has shown amazing inventiveness and commitment towards her work. She discussed her experience and the value of passion and fresh ideas in this interview with Pinkvilla. Neeta, who is renowned for her work in 400 films and her bridal couture, thinks that being creative and trying your hardest lead to a lot of opportunities in the fashion industry. Her interview inspires both seasoned industry veterans and newcomers to confidently pursue their aspirations in the industry.
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